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Designers add new twist by inviting audience to post their verdict on show on to screens above catwalk
In Milan, fashion is showbusiness, and the show must go on. Neither a head-on scheduling clash with the Oscars, nor the small matter of an ongoing court case for alleged large-scale tax evasion seemed to dampen spirits at the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk show.
For once, there were no celebrities in the audience. The Hollywood elite were otherwise engaged – and those not invited to the Oscars see little point making a public appearance in Milan when the media circus is focused on LA. Instead, to keep the audience amused, a Wi-Fi network allowed audience members to post comments, via their smart phones and BlackBerrys, on to screens above the catwalk, where they ran alongside comments from viewers watching the online livestream over footage from backstage. The designers said they hoped this would add a "new and emotional component" to their show.
The messages ranged from the banal ("Thank you for the red wine!" from one polite fourth-rower) to the generic ("You are fantastic!" from an online fan). But watching a bespectacled Stefano Gabbana brandishing a lint roller as he double-checked the final looks behind the velvet curtain, snapping gum with a ferocity to match Alex Ferguson in the dugout, proved rather compelling.
The collection was entitled Sensuality: Masculine-Feminine and for every model who emerged in the label's signature Sicilian sexpot guise – fitted black lace or star-studded stretch jersey dress, high heels, pout and wiggle – there was another in a boyish get-up of trousers, white shirt and pork pie hat. No prizes for guessing which will get the cash tills ringing on Via della Spiga.
But the mannish outfits served a purpose, no doubt reminding the many executive women who go to Dolce & Gabbana for their brilliantly fitted suits about the duo's tailoring skills. The star print, which was the standout new look, ("Love the star motif! Retro-70s! Coolissimo!" as the screens put it) looked sure to be copied on high streets all over the world.
One issue notably absent among the messages was that of the court case in which Dolce & Gabbana are involved. The pair are accused of allegedly evading taxes totalling €416m (£355m), but have denied all charges. Ten days ago, a preliminary court hearing was deferred until next month, the defendants' lawyers having apparently asked for more time. Both designers, Dolce's brother Alfonso and three other senior members of the company are in the spotlight.
The charges relate to tax unpaid on profits of the 2004 sale of the designers' two ranges, Dolce & Gabbana and D&G, to a Luxembourg holding company. The Dolce & Gabbana position is that the accusations are "based on a completely abstract calculation" based on hypothetical market value, which vastly exaggerates the profits from the sale. There is also a separate case into tax irregularities at the Dolce & Gabbana group, relating to unpaid taxes of €200m.
The slow pace of change in Italian fashion is such that Dolce & Gabbana, who celebrated their 25th anniversary last year, are still considered a fairly young name on the Milan fashion week schedule. Gucci celebrates its 90th anniversary this year; Fendi is 86 years old; Salvatore Ferragamo, 83. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been active in trying to bring some youthful energy into their industry. Last week they hosted an event where young designers showcased their own designs – mixed with Dolce & Gabbana accessories – in the duo's flagship Milan store.
Like Burberry in the UK, Dolce & Gabbana are also working to harness the internet and social networking to promote their brand. As well as Sunday's exercise in live-commenting, Stefano Gabbana is an avid tweeter, firing out a stream of Italian endearments, references to sunbathing and holidays and music, emoticons and glamorous snaps of the designers with models and celebrities. Following the catwalk show, prominent fashion bloggers including Bryan Boy were taken to the Dolce & Gabbana boutique where they took over the window display to put on show outfits in their own style from the clothes on the shopfloor.